WONTON CAZINI WITH LAMB RAGU
On the eighth episode of David Chang’s Netflix series Ugly Delicious, Chang mock-debates Mario Carbone over the origin of dumplings. Chang argues that Asia always has and always will reign supreme, while Carbone makes the case for Italy. It’s a playful and entertaining contest, but it gave me an idea to use Asian wrappers for an Italian dish.
I used this recipe from Saveur for Cazini with Lamb Ragu. I've used it before and made the pasta dough myself. But this time I thought I'd make use of my extra wonton wrappers I stocked up on during the last Hong Kong Market trip. My first attempt was a total fail, because i discounted how thin the wrappers were; however, different brands will have different thicknesses, so I URGE you to make one single cazini and test it before continuing to wrap. I learned my lesson after wrapping a sizable batch only to watch it turn into mush and fall apart. The solution? Using two wrappers and sealing them together with a little water. Those turned out just fine.
LAMB RAGU
- 2 cups coarsely puréed whole peeled tomatoes, preferably San Marzano
- 4 garlic cloves, divided
- 3 tbsp. olive oil, divided
- 1 fresh marjoram sprig
- 1 1⁄2 tsp. thinly sliced fresh sage
- 1 1⁄2 tsp. minced fresh rosemary
- 1⁄4 tsp. crushed red chile, coarsely ground
- 1 1⁄2 tsp. ground fennel pollen (optional)
- 1⁄2 cup plus 2 Tbsp. minced yellow onion
- 1⁄2 cup minced celery
- 1⁄2 cup minced fennel, fronds removed
- 1⁄4 cup minced carrot
- 1 1⁄4 lb. ground lamb
- Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
- 1⁄4 cup plus 2 Tbsp. red wine
- 2 cups chicken stock
Chop up your vegetables. Then get your tomatoes, garlic, marjoram and olive oil going in a saucepan.
Bring that to a boil and reduce to a simmer while you start cooking the vegetables.
Start by heating up the sage, chili and rosemary.
Then throw in the diced celery, onion, carrots and fennel.
After the vegetables have started to soften, add the lamb and cook until it is broken up and no longer pink. Then, add the tomato mixture and chicken stock and bring to a boil.
Reduce to a simmer and let the ragu cook for about 3 hours.
CAZINI FILLING
- 1 3⁄4 cups plus 2 Tbsp. ricotta
- 1⁄2 cup plus 2 Tbsp. grated Pecorino Romano, plus more for serving
- 1 tbsp. plus 1 tsp. sugar
- 1 generous pinch freshly ground cinnamon
- 1 generous pinch freshly ground nutmeg
- 1 large egg
- Pinch of kosher salt
Now, grab your wonton wrappers.
Lay out the wrappers, but remember my warning: Try boiling one before you fill a big batch to see if you need a double layer like I did.
Fill each wrapper with about 1 Tbsp of the filling and seal the edges with a small amount of water.
Bring a large pot of water to a boil and drop a batch of cazini in. Mine took just a minute to cook, yours may take up to two. Again, this is why it’s important to do a test with a single cazini before you throw a whole batch in.
Remove cazini with slotted spoon. I would recommend against using a spider as it might pierce the delicate dough.
Serve immediately with ragu and grated Pecorino Romano if you wish!